Around the World – Restaurant Coque** – Madrid (October 2023)

A very good reason to return from hiatus…

About the restaurant

The kitchen of Coque** is led by Mario Sandoval. Alongside his brothers Diego and Rafael, their culinary journey began at their grandparents’ eating house in Humanes, a city on the outskirts of Madrid. Mario’s training at elBulli in 1999 propelled him back to Coque, where he took the helm of the family restaurant, while Diego took charge of the front of house and Rafael as the sommelier. A mere five years later, they earned their first Michelin star. Their dedication and innovation were further recognised in 2015 when they were awarded their second Michelin star, a distinction that they have maintained ever since. Notably, Coque is one of the two Madrilene restaurants that have been honoured with a Green Michelin star, a testament to their commitment to sustainability within the industry. Additionally, Coque has its very own estate, Jaral de la Mira, which serves as Mario’s agricultural laboratory and a remarkable project aimed at the reintroduction of extinct vegetables.

About the menu

The Roots menu offers an extraordinary culinary experience, encompassing both indulgence and endurance, for a price of €340. For those with vegetarian or vegan preferences, an alternative option is available at €240. To secure a reservation, a deposit of €100 per person is required. While we did not peruse the digital wine list ourselves, we spotted quite a few very affordable wines (even ones we had at home) while strolling around, so everyone will find something for their liking and budget. Particularly with the multitude of courses offered, we recommend placing your trust in the expertise of the sommeliers. Two levels of wine pairings are available, with the luxury option called Armonía de Vinos priced at €360, and an even more exclusive selection priced at €660. Regrettably, the wine pairing must be chosen for the entire table, preventing us from selecting both and making a direct comparison. Without a doubt, this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, featuring esteemed names such as Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune, Gaja & Rey, Vega Sicilia Unica, Chateau d’Yquem, 40-year-old Graham’s port, and Rémy Martin Louis XIII cognac. However, we felt that spending three times more on alcohol than on food was slightly disproportionate. Consequently, we opted for the Armonía wines to accompany our Vegetarian menu.

About the experience

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Then, we were taken to the absolutely stunning wine cellar (reportedly housing over 13,000 bottles of approximately 3,000 different varietals!). Here, the options for wine pairings were elucidated. The Armonía de Vinos selection is located at the lower right, above and below the (even more) Exclusive pairings.

Then we were ushered down to the “Sacristy”, a dimly lit sub-basement where they keep all the sherry. Some bottles were back to the early 1800s! For the nibbles, we had Tree leaf with pickled tartar and Grilled marinated artichoke. Obviously, paired with a bespoke Oloroso Sherry poured straight from the barrel!

We ascended to the kitchen where a delightful combination of Sun-dried tomato and Romaine lettuce with Parmesan awaited us (albeit latter is not pictured). To complement, we had the pleasure of savouring a special edition beer: Numerada Serie Granada Rosas by Grupo Cervezas Alhambra. On display in the pastry kitchen were the 3 different homemade loaves (regular, multigrain and tomato/herbs) that were destined to be served as accompaniments throughout the menu.

About 40 minutes, 4 drinks, and 8 amuses later, we settled down in the dining room for the remainder of the night. The red Q sticker indicates the Vegetarian menu, by the way.

7. (No picture) Pumpkin rice with vanilla from Madagascar, Crunchy pumpkin crisp with parsley seed oil and parsley, Pumpkin seeds with caramelised seeds
Piedra Cachada 2019 (V.T. Castilla, Spain)

9. [No picture) Amanita Caesarea crudités and sauted, Saam of tamarillo stew, Romescu with vegetables from Jaral de la Mira.
Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5° Año 2018 (D.O. Ribera del Duero – Spain)

12. Smoked sheep’s milk with flambéed blueberries
Giovanni Allegrini 2016 (D.O.C.G. Recioto della Valpolicella Classico, Italy)

The conclusion

In short, it was an absolutely unforgettable experience. We indulged in 8 amuse-bouches, savoured 9 exquisite courses, and 3 desserts, all accompanied by a staggering selection of 15 different beverages throughout the 4-hour session. The service was outstanding — friendly, knowledgeable, and attentive.

The food was nothing short of spectacular. The preparations showcased the quality of the ingredients, highlighting their textures and the artful combination of flavours. The increased use of salt that comes with fine dining was a bit too prominent, especially on the main dish: the Amanita Caesarea and the Saam of tamarillo stew even almost overpowered a fantastic Vega Sicilia 😅.

That being said, we thoroughly enjoyed the sensory aspects of the experience — from the smoky cocktail to the moody lighting in the sacristy, the variety of breads, and the clever use of lemon-scented dry ice to enhance the flavors of the fig dessert. We must also commend the restaurant for their thoughtful approach to music. The speakers were only activated in the hallway, creating a pleasant ambience in the dining room without it becoming imposing or distracting.

The drink and wine pairings were equally impressive. Initially, we were concerned about the pace of the dinner and the quantity of drinks, but the pours perfectly complemented each dish. I did miss some pictures, but we were still able to stroll back to our apartment with ease. Even though the splurge, Coque** is unquestionably a worthy indulgence for those seeking an extraordinary culinary adventure!